Tips from Maryanne & Kyle aboard the Catamaran Begonia

June/July 2022: Cruising The Kimberley, Western Australia (tips and thoughts)

Wish to contact us (or send updates or corrections)? We welcome any feedback: MaryanneLWebb via our gmail.com email account

For more of our travels - see our Blog, for all our Kimberley blogs posts see Kimberley blog posts only

In June and July of 2022 as part of our Australia cruising we travelled with Begonia to The Kimberley (yes, it is 'The Kimberley' and never 'The Kimberlies').

The Kimberley is huge (about three times the size of the England), the most northern of the nine regions of the state of Western Australia (WA). It's beautiful with ancient geology and human inhabitation for over 40,000 years. Barely any of the coastline has any road access so the best way to explore it is via boat or aircraft. 80% of the time we had anchorages and whole regions to ourselves. Around 50 private boats a year visit this area (along with a host of cruise ships and tour boats), so some areas indeed have traffic, but for the most part you find yourself enjoying solitude and peace. There is spectacular geolgy, wildlife, rock art, etc. But it is totally off the grid. If you are planning a visit there is much you can and should do in advance to make your time there as fruitful as possible.

Useful Tips

• Useful Guides - download, source or purchase before you depart!
  • Cruising Guides There are three excellent sources (all available to download). It is worth having all three aboard as while there is some overlap, they each have some unique coverage also.
    • WA Cruising Guide (published by Fremantle Cruising Club) - generously available as a free pdf download (or you can purchase a printed copy). This is an excellent and extensive publication. It covers the whole Western Australia (WA) coast (and a little of NT and SA too). It has a great section (100s of pages) on Kimberley anchorages alone, suggests anchoring locations and items of interest, and with excellent diagrams. This is regularly updated so be sure you have the latest version. See their publiations page.
    • Dennis and Annette Ford's tips These long term cruisers to the area generously provide pages of cruising tips (downloadable as PDF files via Darwin sailing club web site) covers Darwin to Broome (including lots of detail through the Kimberley)
      • Be wary as (as of 2022) some of these guides suggest shore excursions that are no longer permitted: e.g.
        • Walking on Montgomery Reef is no longer permitted (to protect the corals).
        • Access ashore at Langgi (and other sites) now requires an aboriginal guide to be with you, per the Dambimangari visitor permit.
        • etc.
    • KCCYC The Kimberley Coastal Cruising Yacht Club - A small fee for lifetime membership gives access to a host of great info sheets (by anchorage area). This is East Kimberley centric and does not cover the complete Kimberley coast, but still well worth membership. They also tend to have an annual meet up at some Kimberley location - something you may want to factor into your trip planning for the year you get to cruise the Kimberley coast.
  • Charts
    • Paper Charts are available - and specific chart numbers for each area are referenced in the three main guides above.
    • We had an Australia chart chip in our chart plotter (compatible), and used the Navionics App pre-downloaded with Australia data on our smart phones
  • Apps
    • Zulu waterways - Zulu Offshore app - has the WA Cruising Guide information plus various other crowd sourced cruiser notes, pictures and comments (great for the dinghy and shore outings). The app is free. You can pay for a package to download ALL the WA related satellite imagery (associated with any marker) or you can manually download sat imagery yourself for the areas you are interested in (using the a free montly quota, and if necessary optional paid extra credits).
    • Marine Parks WA app - information (available offline) for all 17 WA Marine Parks
    • RecFishWest app - provides useful fishing information e.g. catch limits, ID, and restricted zones.
  • Tide tables - be sure you have access to offline tide tables - I used this website https://www.ausmarinescience.com/tide-times/ and downloaded all the WA tide stations just in case (always good to compare with Navionics as sometimes Navionics is very different). The WA Cruising guides suggest additional (better) BoM and WA Gov websites where you can download tide tables.
  • Topographical Maps I downloaded (free) topographical maps of the region of interest (anchorage and travel areas: coastline and river systems). Aside from cliff heights I'm not sure these maps were much use to me (charts and other guides were much more useful). They don't show rock art sites nor other cultural features, and didn't generally name the features useful to cruisers. Some are JPG, some TIF format. I sourced these (free) via Geoscience Australia. I identified the maps that were coastal or showed the river systems we'd likely visit - there were about 117 of them! These maps do show any perennial water sources (but then the other guides also give these same sources where useful to collect water by dinghy etc.).
  • Satellite Imagery I also had copies of satellite imagery suitable for OpenCPN software (thanks to a friend who had done the hard work of identifying and downloading them all). You can download satellite imagery within the Zulu Offshore app (or other apps) for offline use along with a host of options to download charts with GPS data for your computer to use in software like OpenCPN - e.g. via VentureFarther, sat2chart, SAS Planet, etc.

• Best Time to Visit to The Kimberley? - Best time is in the early dry season, when the waterfalls are still flowing, but the cyclone season is definitely over. However all the dry season is good to visit (May-October). See the guide books for more details.

• East or West through The Kimberley? - The question may be moot if you are visiting the Kimberley as an out and back trip. Most good sailing winds during the dry season seem to be from the SE so heading East to West is condidered 'easier' but each year plenty go in either direction (just picking their time to travel between cruising areas). Stronger winds also tend to die off in the afternoons around the Kimberley. See the guidebooks for more details.

• Permits & Licenses Required - organize before you depart the world of the internet..
  • Land Access Permits (see details in the cruising guides suggested above): Permit sites include
    • Dambimangari Abororiginal Land access Permit - https://www.dambimangari.com.au. Also download their map of sites to have fora reference, along with the Visitor Location Schedule (which details if any 'Traditional Owner Guide' is required for each site).
    • Uunguu (Wunambal Gaambera) Permit - https://wunambalgaambera.org.au/. Also download their map of sites to have for reference.
    • Aboriginal Lands Permit System (ALPS) /DAA land permit (free but application is time consuming and convoluted, but at least it can be done on line). You should secure your aboriginal permits (the two above) first if expecting to request access to these areas. Even if those two specific aboriginal country visitor permits are granted, the ALPS is also required.
    • Note: even with permits, this does not mean you can roam around all sites (or even step foot ashore at all sites) - be sure to read the regulations for each permit requested/provided.
  • Fishing License - if you intend to do any fishing then a Fishing Permit is required for WA (per person) Recreational Fishing Licenses
    • Fishing is VERY popular among visitors to the Kimberley (a license is required, and you should be aware of the catch regulations and storage requirements).
    • Be aware of all fishing regulations and of the various marine protected areas/sanctuaries (and rules).
    • Download the recreational fishing guide (for WA), and the RecFishWest app in advance.
    • Expect to get at least one visit from WA Fisheries as they have a boat in the area all season they will come aboard and inspect your fridge/freezer, etc (but they are very friendly so don't be worried if you are complying with the rules). Additionally helicopters are used to monitor for fishing activity in no-fishing area.
    • When travelling through any no-fishing zone, be sure to have your rods and fishing gear stowed (to comply with regulations and avoid a fine).
    • Note: crab pots are not permitted aboard at all, and visitors are advised to simply not bring them (or donate them elsewhere before entering the Kimberley).
    • Note: there is a 'Recreational Fishing from Boats Licence', or 'RFBL' for fishing from any powered vessel.

• Communications
  • No standard Cellphone/Internet access - Any towns with road access can be expected to have a signal (e.g. Derby & Wyndham), but these are weeks, if not months apart on the cruising schedule. So expect no cell phone service for much of this wilderness area aside from a very few population pockets (e.g. Koolan Island area in West Kimberley, just NW of Horizontal Falls, and I'm told Honeymoon Bay in the East Kimberley also has some cell phone coverage).
  • You can use your VHF radio in the usual way, but the topography limits distance any signal will transmit (so it is mostly used to communicate with boats in your immediate area).
  • Bring a hand held VHF for your dinghy too - just in case. It can also serve as a backup if your main unit fails in such a remote location.
  • We used our Iridium Go (satellite connection - slow, with ability to make telephone calls and can be used with a few select internet apps), along with sailmail and PredictWind type apps to download weather on demand. It's expensive, but we already had all the equipment from our pacific passages and a monthly (unlimited data) subscription. The Iridium Go! only failed to get a signal at one anchorage (where we anchored surrounded by very close/high cliffs blocking any signal)
  • If you carry an EPRIB - be sure it is registered and batteries are in date/test.
  • If you have AIS/MMSI capabilities - be sure your MMSI number is registered to your vessel
  • Carry appropriate flares "just in case" (Check you at least comply with the WA minimum requirements)

• Weather Forecasts There is no cell phone service, and no regular coastguard/VMR VHF broadcasts in area, you need to plan ahead how you will get your weather forecasts.
  • HF Radio will allow you to receive weather reports on the hour during the daytime. WA Cruising Guide (published by Fremantle Cruising Club - see above) has all the phone numbers, channels and times for such information. (see also BoM Website)
  • Many cruisers carry Satellite phones or Iridium Go type devices (allowing for data connections or calls to a trusted source). Even these signals are sometimes blocked when anchoring surrounded by high cliff.
  • Bureau of Meteorology (BoM) provides weather forecast by phone as recorded messages - if you have a satellite phone (or a rare cell phone signal) you can call at any time (see the WA Cruising guide for phone numbers).
  • If you can't get a current forecast for whatever reason - do reach out to ask among other visiting cruising or tourist boats for their most recent weather forecast (call them up on VHF 16)

• Drones? If you have a drone, be fully aware of any restrictions for flying (national park rules, etc). E.g. there is a 7km drone exclusion zone around Horizontal Falls (due to it being a high air traffic region).

• Expect to be totally self-sufficient
  • Assume no facilities, no chance to get fuel, drinking water, provisions, spares etc. It is true that there are a few options, but none should be relied upon. Plan to carry your trash for the duration of your stay, and have sufficient clothing/bedding or be prepared to do laundry yourself.

  • Bring along extras of any likely medications you might need.

  • Fuel - you will likely motor more than usual as sailing within the rivers is near to impossible (wind blocked or gusting on the nose). There are no fuel docks in the Kimberley. Yes there are places where refueling is possible, but certainly these require significant planning and are not generally to be relied upon.
    • For any emergency: Carry some cash and fuel jugs to allow you to possibly purchase fuel from other boaters or even from the cruise ships that transit the area. And other 'gifts' to say thank you if you find yourself in such a situation.
    • Consider also fuel for your tender - it is likely that you will make more trips than usual to explore the areas from your main anchorage. You don't want to run out of fuel, nor limit your fun because you are running low.
    • If you are towing your tender/tinny for the trip, then be sure to calculate for the extra fuel consumption required for your main boat (due to the extra drag of the tow).
    • If you have a generator to power, be sure to calculate for the extra fuel consumption required to run it during your time in the Kimberley.

  • Water - you don't want to run out, so plan ahead and monitor your water consumption carefully.
    • Since you'll be visiting in the dry season, there will be no opportunities to catch rainwater.
    • If you plan to use a water-maker then we found the rivers quite murky - it would be wise to bring spare filters, or plan anchorages suitable for water maker use.
    • River Water for showers and laundry can often be collected from waterfalls in most catchments, from your dinghy. It may be helpful to rig in advance a funnel/hose to divert water directly into your jugs. Not all cruising areas within the Kimberley have the ability to easily gather fresh water so plan your routes to detour to catchment areas from time to time if you require this. We carried extra buckets and jerry cans so we'd have plenty of fresh water for our time in the Kimberley.
    • Some are happy to drink the river water but I would not personally recommend it (without boiling or other treatments).
    • Since it will be hot, you can expect to drink more fluids than usual - so be well stocked.
    • Monitor your tank levels regularly to be sure you will not run out of water unexpectedly.

  • Trash/Rubbish/Recycling
    • Expect to carry your trash (and recycling) until you reach civilization again.
    • Be aware of the rules for any dumping of trash at sea.
      • DISCHARGE OF ALL GARBAGE INTO THE OCEANS OR WATERWAYS OF AUSTRALIA IS PROHIBITED - Fines up to $1.7m apply
      • It is illegal to discharge garbage within 3nm of land. (Restrictions also reply to marine protected area of all types).
      • Within 3-12nm of land, it is illegal to discharge garbage (except food scraps processed to a size of less than 25mm)
    • Be aware of the restrictions regarding any fires, including burning of trash ashore (e.g. prohibited in national parks, and in all Dambimangari aboriginal lands) - it's best that you plan to wash, compress and store your trash for disposal at the next suitable port).

  • Laundry - Expect to not find any laundromat-type facilities (hand wash and/or store items until you eventually reach a washing machine). If you do have your own washing machine aboard (and the water and power required), then be kind and offer to run a load to a fellow cruiser (maybe in exchange for a bottle of wine or some such thing)!

  • Groceries/Provisioning
    • Expect no provisioning opportunities - come well prepared.
    • There are plenty of chances catch fresh seafood (be aware of regulations and limits).

  • Pump Outs/Holding Tanks Expect no pump out facilities - be aware of the dumping regulations (per WA Cruising guide: No release of human waste is permitted within 3 nm of the nearest land or within any port limits. Disposal of sewage may also be limited in marine parks and reserves).

  • Maintenance and Repairs There will be no stores or services to be found during your trip, so be prepared for the basic maintenance (and repairs) required aboard. Be sure to carry suitable tools, and bring spare oil, filters, etc for all your critical equipment. Be prepared to help any fellow cruiser in need (what goes around, comes around and all that).

• Tides and Currents
  • Tides - range varies between springs and neaps (as all places) but also across the Kimberley - with 12m+ tides in some places. Be fully aware of the tidal range you expect for your approaches and anchorages, and the state of the tide/currents as you approach any river bars.
  • The further west you are in the Kimberley the bigger the tidal range. (From 2m in the East to 12m to the West).
  • Currents divide/merge at places (e.g. Cape Londonderry) - so plan travel around such areas with care to make the passage as smooth as possible.
  • As you go deeper into any river system the high tide will be delayed, and the range may reduce (check guide notes for details).
  • Some areas are known for being especially rough. Joseph Bonapart Gulf (often called 'Blown-apart' Gulf) and Cape Londonderry (Cape 'Laundry') to name but two. Be sure you have everything aboard stowed securely to avoid breakages.
  • Some anchorages may only be accessible to you at SPRING highs (to get over a bar) or not at all suitable at springs as the low water will be too low (but during neaps you will have sufficient depth at all times).

• AIS - An AIS receiver is really helpful as you can 'see' other boats on your chart plotter that you may never see by eye. Better still if you have a transmitter yourself then other boats can also see you. This way you are more likely to meet up with friends, and can avoid heading to an anchorage you can see is already occupied. If you don't have an AIS aboard already, this may be something to add to your pre-Kimberley upgrades for the boat.

• Tender/Dinghy Choice. Few of us will actually have a choice but will simply undergo our visit to the Kimberley with what we already have, and whatever you have you can still enjoy the Kimberley. If you do get a choice, your tender would ideally should be fast, hard and large. Actual stories of tenders attacked by crocodiles are very rare, but you wouldn't want to be in that column of the statistics. Some cruisers borrow a 'tinny' for the trip especially (and tow it).
  • Large enough that the hulls/transom will give you some buffer between your comfortably seated location and any croc access (that way you can relax as you cruise up and down the waterways). Large enough that if a croc did jump at it and land on your gunnel, it won't flip all the passengers in the water for easy pickings - that would be ideal!
  • Hard: Many refer to any inflatable parts as 'chew toys' for crocs. We have an inflatable kayak, great for exploring in calm anchorages, but I decided that was best left in its bag whilst in croc territory. If you do have a RIB/Inflatable dinghy - then certainly don't leave it in the water overnight (lift into davits or bring aboard).
  • Fast: Much of the fun of the Kimberley is discovering/exploring sites in shallow inlets away from your anchored main boat. You will be able to venture further and easier if you have a fast tender. Also there can be significant currents that you don't want to be on the wrong side of (a powerful motor helps). We have a 3hp electric motor, and generaly cruise at about 2kt - this does not constitute fast; while we were never without something amazing to do, we did have to skip some exploring some areas because of it. We NORMALLY row everywhere - and while this will work for a few anchorages in the Kimberley, power is much better for the distances to be covered, and the currents you may need to work against.
  • Avoid any soft bottom dinghy as there are a lot of rocks, barnacles, and oysters to puncture your boat as you travel up the creeks or leave your dinghy unattended on a falling tide.
  • It would be helpful if your tender has a depth sounder - this can be used when scouting for routes through passages and identifying suitable/potential anchorages (giving you more options).
  • Be sure you have sufficient fuel, spares, and a repair kits (if an inflatable) for your time in the Kimberley.
  • Be sure you have sufficient lifejackets for your dinghy (and hand held VHF) - this is not a place to risk any accidents.

• Dangers:
  • Crocodiles: You WILL see them, mostly they don't board vessels nor bother your dinghy, but it is wise to have a stick to bang against the hard parts of the dinghy (make noise) to deter them, and wise to keep a look out to make sure any you see don't follow you. Do NOT feed them (or toss fish scraps out at anchorages). We don't want them to begin to associate boats with food.
    • Follow the usual croc safety advice/rules.
    • If a croc on the bank sees you they will often quickly enter the water - this isn't necessary to attack you, but for its own safety (it has more options in the water). Be aware, and keep an eye on any crocs you spot. Give them a wide berth.
    • If you are about to land ashore, best to make some noise (bang on your hulls, power your motor a bit up and down the stretch you plan to land). This should disturb any crocodiles enough for them to depart the area, or (if a croc is already ashore) at least make them visible to you so you can make other plans. Check carefully too when you return to your dinghy or launch it from the shore back into the water.
    • Nearly everyone that visits the Kimberley will see crocodiles (regularly). Any attack would make big news, and if you look at the actual croc issues - such attacks are indeed very rare. Keep playing safe and be sure that you don't add yourself to the stats.
    • Pet safety: Crocs are known to particularly be attracted to the smell of dogs. If you have a dog aboard, you are way more likely to see crocs up close. Be sure to keep your pet well away from the edges of the boat (especially any swim step) where a croc might think it an easy snack.
    • Swimming is NOT ADVISED throughout the Kimberley (because of the crocs).
    • From time to time there are recognized 'problem crocs'. In 2022 there was on in Talbot bay that was a bit too 'curious' and was reported to breach the water and land on the gunnel of tenders. Be aware and keep away.
    • If you see a croc approaching you whilst in your tender - leave the area.
    • Do not feed crocodiles (nor toss your scraps in the water within an anchorage as this will teach them to associate boats wtih food).
    • Avoid travelling in your dinghy at night.
    • Report any serious incidents or worrisome crocs (to Parks and Wildlife).
  • Unexpected Grounding: This is not a place to puncture your fiberglass or be left on a rocky bottom as the tide withdraws.
    • Entering rivers and anchorages: always do so on a rising tide, just in case you find an unexpected sandbank, rocks, or rock ledge. Keep a lookout on the bow if there is any uncertainty.
    • There are a lot of uncharted or insufficiently charted waterways in the Kimberley, and this is why it is recommended you approach all new anchorages and channels on a rising tide.
    • Double/Triple check your tide range calculations for any anchorage you select to be sure you won't bottom out at low water.
    • Check all your reference materials for notes about uncharted rocks and shallows, along with suggested (safe) routes, and warnings.
    • Be sure to set your anchor securely (back down and test it with power) to be confident you won't drag
    • Satellite imagery (downloaded while you have internet) is helpful, but does not necessarily protect you from low water groundings.
    • It would be wise to carry some emergency repair supplies aboard regardless.
  • Floating logs & Debris are also a risk - prefer to anchor out of the main stream to avoid any damage to your boat, and keep a look out when transitting areas of potential debris. Avoid sailing in the dark in rivers especially if against the current.
  • Risk of personal injury. Since there is no ready medical care to hand, you will need to bring your own (extensive) medical kit and perhaps take extra precautions when selecting your activities to avoid slips and injuries. This is not a good place to have a broken bone, infection from a cut, or worse.
  • Insects Bug net / coils / control will help you sleep easier if you find yourself in an anchorage surrounded by mosqutioes, sand flies, as the sun sets.
  • Rock Falls Beware, it is obvious from a quick glance that many of the fractured sandstone blocks and rocks are easily dislodged or ready to topple. Avoid anchoring too close (or hanging out for too long alongside any one location). If you see/hear a LARGER rockfall while in your tender, then get out of the area ASAP as this can create large waves and issues.
  • Heat Expect it to be hot and dry - Shade and fans will be your friend aboard. Wear sun-safe clothing, hats and sunscreen when you explore ashore. Keep well hydrated (be sure to take sufficient water with you for any shore excursions). However, it can also be much cooler than you might expect for the tropics! We had plenty of nights where we saw 16C - so be sure to also have suitable clothing (night passages?) and bedding for those cooler times. During our visit in 2022 the daytime temperature rarely reached 30 deg C, but that was considered an unusually cool season.
  • Snakes: Consider good footwear/gators when hiking any distance ashore. Also carry a compression bandage (and know how to use it) and keep a hand held radio with you on any trips ashore. I asked several tour operators about snakes and they each said that they had never had a problem, mostly the snakes seem to keep away from you and will hear you approaching.
  • Sea Snakes: The Kimberley coast has the world's highest diversity of sea snakes (more than one third of all species). Avoid any interaction. All should be regarded as dangeroulsy venomous (most indeed are), and any bites should be treated just as a land snake bite. Since these are so poorly studied, if you do happen to get a sighting and maybe a picture (from a point of safety), then note the date/time/location and description (or picture) and report to Parks and Wildlife.

• Trip Planning. This is likely to be the most challenging of all the trip planning in your cruising life, mostly to coordinate the large number of differnt locations that need specific tide states to enter/depart.
  • You'll need to plan the passages within and between major basins to avoid/use the currents, arrive at the rising tide, AND be sure you are in suitable anchorages for the expected weather.
  • There are a vairiety of attactions in the Kimberley - so consider the wishes of all your crew when planning the trip, make sure there is something special for everyone to enjoy.
  • There are some locations you will only want to visit around spring tides (e.g. Prince Regent River), and some you will want to avoid at springs. Some that are simply at their 'most impressive' at springs (e.g. Montgomery Reef and Horizontal Falls).
  • Planning time for shore access, or access to the head of creeks, so as to not leave you tender high and dry.
  • Of course some of that planning can be done in advance of the trip. But you will no doubt drift off the master plan when you discovering a place you arn't ready leave, learn of new places to add to your itinerary, meet up with other boaters you wish to travel with, or just the weather not playing ball. Maybe you want to divert from your plan to get fuel, or water - there are a 100+ reasons why the plan needs to change so you should be sure to have all that reference material to hand and available offline.

• Locations to visit (and suitable anchorages). Where you visit may depend upon what you are interested in (Fishing, rock-art, hiking, waterfalls, etc). The guides listed above suggest areas to visit, and the mass visit there only. The reality is that you can take anchor and explore at millions of other sections of beach/coastline/rivers - so it's worth planning some 'free style' exploring into your schedule (with caution).

• Anchoring - mostly it is straightforward to anchor where the guides suggest, very few locations require lines ashore. To be sure that you are anchoring in sand/mud (rather than on a rocky bottom) then anchoring off stream inlets in the river is the preferred option (and take the dinghy from there to explore further).
  • Anchoring is often deep (adding a 12m+ tide range at spring high tides in some places) so be sure you have plenty of rode for sufficient scope.
  • A small number of anchorages require a 2nd anchor or a line ashore due to the limited swing room. (You can chose to avoid these, or come prepared).
  • Be cautious of anchoring outside of suggested areas. If your anchor was to foul it is unlikely you'll readily find someone willing to dive on it to free it up. Consider brining along a trip line or a anchor retrieval device.

• Rock Art this is the treasure hunt of the Kimberley. Your guides and apps will suggest areas that are known to have art, but once in such an area the hunt is on. There are various types to be found:
  • Bradshaw: Older art no longer practiced (possibly from groups no longer around), believed to be upto 40,000 years old. In places the pigment has been proven over 6,000 years old. I was skeptical when I first heard this, but I then learned that wasp nests over some of the art has been successfully dated AND that the pigment used actually attracts a black fungi and red bacteria causing some ongoing symbiotic relationship - hence the image lasts the ages and requires no touching up. Named after the western 'discoverer' of this art form/style.
  • Wandjina art: The more traditionally expected aboriginal art. This is maintained/refreshed by the current aboriginal guardians.
  • Treat all you find care and respect - don't ever touch it. remove any backpacks/hats when moving through tight areas to avoid damaging surfaces around you.
  • Note: the Visitor Pass for the Dambimangari Aboriginal lands require a local guide for the best art sites (see the Visitor Location Schedule on their web sites).

• Other Traffic.
  • Boaters: While very few cruising boats visit the area each year and they are scattered among the many locations - cruise ships and fellow cruisers will be regularly seen. Always helpful to ask for tips for any local sites, and of course share any knowledge you may have discovered. In the Berkeley River (where there is also the lodge, you will also see local traffic). We found the other cruise ships and passenger boats incredibly friendly and generally asked if any help was needed. Some gifted and offered us real treats (offers of mooring balls, top-ups of ice, and even a gift of champagne one time). It was also suggested that they would always help out visiting boaters if they could (fuel, etc). We tried to give them space when taking their paying customers ashore and on tours (they are paying a LOT of money after all and we have the freedom of time to explore once they have departed).
  • Helicopters and planes: will also fly over regularly (scenic tours and officialdom).
  • 4WD: some locations have 4WD road access (e.g. campsites).

• Wildlife/Nature: From baob trees to dolphins. Birds, crocs, small wallaby, lizards, plants, dugong, trees, fish, turtles, etc, etc - bring along your guidebooks (or offline apps).

• Paid/Organized Tourist Opportunities $$.
  • Horizontal Falls (Talbot Bay) - during the dry season there is a floating 'hotel'/pontoon filled with flying planes, and tour boats. You can pay for various tours to experience the falls (boat/plane/helicoptor options).
    • in 2022 a 10 minute scenic helicopter tour was $150 per person.
    • in 2022 a 45 minutes boat tour (Cyclone Creek and Horizontal Falls) was $90 per person
    • While seaplanes were constantly landing and taking off, they don't offer scenic tours via sea plane (these are only for the charter flights).
    • Call 'Hotel' on VHF chanel 68 to verify price/availability and to organize a time. You may need to be flexible and wait a day or two for a slot. While they will try to accomodate you, the setup is fully around the guests that have flown in.
    • Credit cards accepted
  • Helicopter tours? - Aside form Horizontal Falls, If you happen to be in a bay where a cruise ship / tour boat has a helicopter - consider radio-ing in and asking if they have any spare capacity for you to also get a ride! (have cash or credit card to hand). - In 2022 we were quoted $1440 AU (Total) for a scenic tour, this allows for up to 4 people (you need to pay to fill the helicopter). I've no idea how this compares to other operators you might ask, but assume it is pretty standard. They also offered more expensive tours (including a stop at a swim hole, etc). Alternatively Helicopter tours are available from Horizontal Falls.
  • Sea Planes tours?- if you find yourself in a bay that has a sea plane landing - then it won't hurt to ask if they can give you quick tour.
  • Pub (and store) at Cockatoo Island - when I visited I was scared off by the no anchoring zone marked on the chart (and the unexploded ordnance warnings). Apparently the mine is no longer there so the 'no anchor' zone has been declassified. SO YOU CAN GO!!!
  • Fuel Dock at Dog Leg Creek - is mainly there to support the mine at Koolan Island, but if they have spare fuel they are very obliging (expect a higher price and to pay in cash - we paid $3.80/L for diesel in July 2022). If you really need a LOT of fuel you may be able to pre-organize this. Ice creams also available and *sometimes* a few basics too.

• FIRST AID! You will be very remote so take extra precautions in everything you do, bring sufficient of your medications and a good general first aid kit for any emergencies, knocks and scrapes.

• Photographs & Backups. You are likely to capture many magical memories - be sure to bring your camera/batteries/charger/memory-cards etc. You are likely to taking up a LOT of data in your device from all these pictures (more if you have a drone, and take movies too). Be sure you have plenty of storage, and that you can backup your data regularly while you are offline with no access to the cloud; it would be crushing to lose these memories. If you are using your phone to capture these memories, then consider how you can back-up those pictures during your trip (just in case you lose your phone overboard, or have some other calamity). Brining a dry bag on the trip (especially for dinghy trips) would be useful too to protect your electronics.

• Entertainment - bring books, games, movies and projects to entertain yourself and guests/crew at night.

• Sea Breezes can blast winds and gusts up the rivers (often very strong - 20kt+)

• Cash - there are few opportunities to spend money, but you should at least bring sufficient cash for any fuel and any emergencies (credit cards are unlikely to be accepted with the exception of organized tourist activities). There are no ATMs (obviously)

Wish to contact us (or send updates or corrections)? We welcome any feedback: MaryanneLWebb via our gmail.com email account

See all our tip lists | Read our Blog | Where are we now?